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A siphon coffee at LAMILL COFFEE in 4 minutes & 15 images March 17, 2009


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The world’s best New York pastrami is still not in New York March 14, 2009

How much heat did I, a native New Yorker and food critic for the hometown Daily News, take for insisting that…

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Spared the disgrace of a cow’s milk cappuccino March 1, 2009

Caffe Luxxe pulls some of LA’s best espresso shots and, situated amid the casual-chic shops of Santa Monica’s moneyed Montana Ave, it…

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Cold olive oil spread February 13, 2009

By freezing and then partially thawing extra virgin olive oil, three-star chef Gérard Passédat of Le Petit Nice in Marseille transforms EVOO…

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Bistro steak with Béarnaise sauce February 11, 2009

Parisian bistro chefs invariably prefer the sizzling sear of a frypan to that of a charcoal or wood-fired grill for their…

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Eau de café – the next big thing in designer perfumes? February 10, 2009

The coffee craze and the ensuing demand for coffee ice creams, brandies and sodas have caught the attention of International Flavors…

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Vac pots – the old-tech alternative to the $11,000 Clover coffee brewer January 25, 2009

Starbucks was not seeking to buy indie cred, nor was it trying to undermine the bragging rights of small artisan coffee…

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Letter to the critic who hated the bread at Moro January 24, 2009

Dear Andy Hayler, I stumbled upon your review of Moro (34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1), which was reprinted at, and had great…

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Do you have to be fat to be a great cook? January 13, 2009

In his review of Corrigan’s Mayfair in London, Matthew Norman devotes the first 285 words to a single hypothesis: The best professional…

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Would you like your wine al dente? December 29, 2008

The logic to Devine’s metaphorical flourish is inescapable:

If, (A), al dente, an Italian expression meaning “to the teeth”, is commonly used to describe the firm, desirably chewy texture of pasta and, (B), “chewy” is an accepted term in the wine lexicon for fleshy, firm-structured, full-bodied wines, then, (C), the Domaine Gay-Coperet Moulin à Vent tastes like fettuccine.

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