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Letter to the critic who hated the bread at Moro January 24, 2009

Dear Andy Hayler, I stumbled upon your review of Moro (34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1), which was reprinted at, and had great…

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Do you have to be fat to be a great cook? January 13, 2009

In his review of Corrigan’s Mayfair in London, Matthew Norman devotes the first 285 words to a single hypothesis: The best professional…

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Would you like your wine al dente? December 29, 2008

The logic to Devine’s metaphorical flourish is inescapable:

If, (A), al dente, an Italian expression meaning “to the teeth”, is commonly used to describe the firm, desirably chewy texture of pasta and, (B), “chewy” is an accepted term in the wine lexicon for fleshy, firm-structured, full-bodied wines, then, (C), the Domaine Gay-Coperet Moulin à Vent tastes like fettuccine.

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Are you seeking cover from an authoritative source? November 29, 2008

At lunch on Thursday, Peter Harden, the co-publisher (with his brother Richard) of Harden’s London and UK restaurant guides, named a 7th…

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Do food critics give us permission to ‘like’ a restaurant? November 28, 2008

In this 24 September post I listed 6 things readers might expect to get from a restaurant review.  I may need to…

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