[oqeygallery id=31] Note: E5 Bakehouse has suspended preparation of its bagels until a new, larger oven is up and running. I'll let you know when they're back in production. If you already found it next to hopeless to graze through all the must eats of London...
Suspense was the flavour on my tongue as I approached the London Hilton at Park Lane for a short interview with Pierre Hermé. I knew I would have to broach – and therefore answer to – the tongue-in-cheek blog post I'd composed in July as an open letter to the pastry...
In Beautiful Pastrami Spotted on London Pavement I wrote of having to photograph The Deli West One pastrami on the sidewalk after someone in charge at the new kosher deli stopped me from taking additional photos of its meats. He suggested I download and use photos...
The passing pedestrians on Blandford Street in Marylebone, an affluent area of central London, were all asking themselves various forms of the same question: What is that man doing taking photos of a pastrami sandwich left out on the pavement? Wrong question, I...
The bacon cheeseburger at the Dalston Superstore in theultra- cool heart of East London sure is tall. Maybe the skyscraper burger is the bar's idea of New York style. Whatever. I identified no fewer than eight serious problems with the one I ordered medium-rare. From...
The first thing I noticed about Gianluca Franzoni when I introduced myself to him just minutes before a tasting of Domori Cacao Culture at Gallery Illy in London was his suit. There are artisan silk weavers in Lucca who dream of threading a fine scarf with the polish...
To prove to you there's a lot more to young&foodish than burgers, spaghetti, pizza, sandwiches and coffee I decided to devote my newest top 10 to the Frieze Art Fair at London's Regent's Park. Whenever I go to art shows, which is pretty much all the time except...
When Pino Cuttaia advises young, ambitious Sicilian chefs to follow his example and work abroad to experience new techniques and unfamiliar foods he is not necessarily pointing them towards London or New York. The overseas destinations he has in mind are on...
"Spain," Belgian chef Viki Geunes told a group of London foodies at the Galleria Illy, "is more technique and less product. Whatever I do must add value to the product." By evoking Spain the two-star Michelin chef at 't Zilte in Antwerp was asserting his opposition...
"There's no good tea, there's no bad tea," Didier Jumeau-Lafond of Dammann Frères, the exclusive Parisian sellers of 3,500 fine teas, told the 13 September gathering at the Galleria Illy pop-up. "There is just one tea, the one you like." It was a good line, infusing...
The genius of the Wimpy Mega Burger may not by immediately apparent to those of you grew up with and later grew weary of that national chain of fast-food hamburger bars. But to an American introduced to the uncertain charms of Wimpy 57 years after its launch on...
There are only two things wrong with the exceptional bagel created by Luca's Bakery in the South London suburb of East Dulwich: It costs £1.40. What chutzpah! It's not a bagel. The Luca's bagel is not boiled before it is baked, the process that yields the...
The great Clerkenwell coffee shop St Ali has given over the prime position on breakfast and brunch menus traditionally occupied by Hollandaise sauce to truffle mascarpone. I repeat, truffle mascarpone. It is served atop toast alongside two poached eggs with smoked...
For the opening act of the 4th of July BurgerMonday Meatup at the West End haunt Joe Allen chef Marc Brown decided to wing it. He pulled the tender meat from braised chicken wings, covered it in a mildly spicy Buffalo chicken sauce cut with some Lea & Perrins for...
15 July 2011 Dear Pierre Hermé, Imagine my delight when on the first of this month I received an invitation from your public relations representative in the UK to visit your Pierre Hermé Paris boutique in London (map), sample some of your incomparable macarons and...
I knew the Williamses were going to serve a slew of winners in London in late June, but I was thinking Serena and Venus, not Alyn, Nicole and David. Alyn Williams, formerly a top chef for the likes of Marcus Wareing and Gordon Ramsey, will soon be a top chef for,...
[oqeygallery id=11] I asked Attilio Reale, the accomplished pizza baker at New York's Buca Brick Oven Pizza on West 103rd Street, if he learned to fold and tie his classic pizzaiolo hat back home in Naples. No, the Neapolitan learned the technique working in the...
With great burgers as with great buildings, the blueprint comes first and the construction comes second. The reverse seems to be true at the new Bistro du Vin on St John Street in Clerkenwell. Delivered on a wood chopping board with a groove for a cone of golden...
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The restaurant at Fergus Henderson's new St John Hotel stands as a gently lit oasis of white and stainless-steel functionality amid the glare and sleaze of after-hours Leicester Square. The grilled skirt steak with beef dripping chips, herb-shallot mustard and cress...
[oqeygallery id=5] "There is no best restaurant in the world," Rene Redzepi told me minutes after Noma, his Copenhagen restaurant, claimed that very title for the second year running at last night's The San Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants awards. "Here...
A good bun cannot rescue a lousy burger but a lousy bun can wreck a good burger. The same is true of sliders, the small and suddenly trendy sandwiches that take after mini-burgers. That's why I'd like to see Danny O'Sullivan, the Street Foodie, find new and preferably...
Slowly cooked and stored in its own fat, duck confit can be a tender, melty delight. Its fatty skin, when pan-seared to a bronze crisp, is the most irresistible casing for salty and succulent duck meat this side of Beijing. But like most routinely reheated meats...
This is not a review of Les Deux Salons. For my recent lunch at that French brasserie near Covent Garden I was focussed on two objectives: Getting my fingers on its burger for BurgerMonday consideration and breaking bread, though not in the literal sense, with Paul...
The one detail that caught my eye as I entered Prufrock, the first coffee shop operated by 2009 World Barista Champion Gwilym Davies that does not rest on wheels, was the tamper doorknobs. A tamper is the hand tool baristas use to pack ground coffee into an espresso...
Upon tasting a version of a food far superior to any he or she has had before a Londoner may respond with a colloquial end of! – end of discussion: It doesn't get any better than this. It won't get any better than this. End of! can be an expression of ultimate praise...
To source a generously fatty blend of the finest, private reserve 100% Perthshire Black Angus Beef for the BurgerMondayPopup presented by young&foodish in London on 24 January, James Lowe, the chef at St John Bread & Wine, consulted with butcher Darragh O'Shea at his...
Yesterday I was trudging through the snow drifts along London's Leather Lane on the quietest of Saturdays in this December of discontent when I came across this wondrous sign above the entrance of numbers 14-16:Â Department of Coffee and Social Affairs. Was I...
If real wizardry was what the people wanted, November's red carpets would have been diverted from the Harry Potter premiere at Odeon Leicester Square to a great new coffee shop on St Martin's Lane and a superb new pizzeria restaurant on Great Newport St. Notes Music...
On Monday 15th November 2010 at 19:00 hours I led a red-shirted swarm of BurgerMondiacs to the Burger King at London's Waterloo Station. Our mission was to elude security, occupy the upper level of the burger monarch's restaurant and impose table service. Our plot was...
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