New York

Growing Up With the Joe Allen Burger

As a lad, my father would take me to eat at Joe Allen, the enduring West Side gathering place in New York's Theatre District. He invariably ordered us burgers and not because it was the restaurant's least expensive main dish. Most of the Broadway personalities seated...

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Music to Make Pizza By

The longest hour of my life consisted of 60 interminable minutes waiting for a couple of slices at Di Fara Pizza in Brooklyn. Years before he turned 80, pizza legend Dom DeMarco worked at a pace all his own. On a return visit earlier this month I didn't watch the...

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The Skinny on Nathan’s Famous Hot Dogs

It's the 4th of July, the day thousands of New Yorkers celebrate the anniversary of the adoption of the Declaration of Independence by flocking to Coney Island and watching competitive eaters push an unspeakable quantity of hot dogs down their throats.  In the...

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The Latest in Pizzaiolo Chic

[oqeygallery id=11] I asked Attilio Reale, the accomplished pizza baker at New York's Buca Brick Oven Pizza on West 103rd Street, if he learned to fold and tie his classic pizzaiolo hat back home in Naples. No, the Neapolitan learned the technique working in the...

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The Next Great New York Burger?

My recent visit to New York coincided with another bout of unease for Andy D'Amico, the chef/co-owner of 5 Napkin Burger as well as Nice Matin, the Mediterranean restaurant where he first introduced the drippy burger (pictured above) with an ensemble of melted...

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Eataly Feeds NY’s Italianissimo Complex

To shop Eataly's 50,000 square feet of Italian foods you must first pass through the Lavazza espresso bar just inside the marketplace's Fifth Avenue entrance. The backdrop to this virtual Via Veneto of consumed – and consuming – New Yorkers and tourists, many of them...

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Too Much Lobster on a Luke’s Roll?

Do Luke Holden and Ben Conniff stuff too much fresh Maine lobster meat into the lobster rolls at their New York seafood eatery Luke's Lobster? Judging from the photo above you'd have to say yes: 4 ounces (113 grams) of lobster chunks from 5 to 6 claws is simply too...

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el doble my double burger benchmark

The El Doble at Txikito (pronounced "chic-kee-toe")  - a Basque restaurant in New York's Chelsea. The chubby double burger is draped with smoked sheep's milk cheese and peppery salsa especial. The version seen above was requested to be on the rare side of...

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Scoring the food at new Yankee Stadium

The purpose of my visit to the new Yankee Stadium had little to do with a baseball game. I was there to survey the food options and rate perhaps a dozen of them. I thought this would be a valuable service for fans who didn't wish to subject their bodies to the very...

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Detouring for the indelible delight

When travelling across nations or neighborhoods I revel in the long detour for the indelible delight. My willingness to wreck itineraries and rile companions for a nibble of potentially life-changing apple strudel partly explains my reputation amongst those who know...

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