Order a Margherita at the best pizzerias of Naples and you typically get a pizza topped with fior di latte, a mozzarella made from cow's milk. Don't believe any Neapolitan who tells you the only mozzarella his brethren will tolerate on a pizza is from the milk of...
What a shame Datte Foco didn't have a more central location. Or a more stylish look. Or a more hospitable welcome for the stroller mums of Stoke Newington. Or more business savvy. Or more of a story to sell to the food media. All it had was superb Roman-style pizza al...
As a native New Yorker in London chronically homesick for his hometown pizza I was delighted to see the bar Dalston Superstore open Voodoo Ray's. The nocturnal pizzeria's location at 95 Kingsland High Street in Dalson, just down the street from the glorious Rio...
The Margherita is smothered in a bland blanket of industrial mozzarella. Pizzeria Calvino, Act I The first act of my Pizzeria Calvino tale begins in frustration. I am denied access to the rear dining rooms by unsmiling men-in-white-shirts and left to...
Why would a leading restaurant critic from New York, a town with outstanding pizza and an ingrained pizza culture dating back over 100 years, move to London, a town with neither, for the pizza? The short answer? I was misinformed. Happily, pizza in London keeps...
[slider_pro id="18"] Saporitalia, 222 Portobello Road, London W11 1LJ (see map)
[slider_pro id="16"] Critics have felt my ranking of the pizza at Story Deli in East London as eighth best in London was wrongheaded. After a long period of soul searching I've arrived at the same conclusion, only from the opposite direction. For purists the...
[slider_pro id="14"] If you want to understand my desire for a molten mozzarella unfulfilled by some of London's top-rated pizzerias, hurry to Saporitalia, opened two weeks ago on Portobello Road in Notting Hill, order a Margherita and see how the islets of fior...
Call them pizzelle fritti, if you insist on using the correct term for this Neapolitan treat. But I took one bite of the golden dough fritter topped with spicy tomato sauce and grated Parmesan and instantly thought doughnut. Savoury doughnut. Pizza doughnut. Two of my...
The most casual follower of young&foodish already knows I am a most passionate supporter of Datte Foco, the Roman-style pizza shop in London's Stoke Newington. Pizzaiolo Herbie Leonelli bakes what are unquestionably the best rectangular trays of pizza al taglio...
[oqeygallery id=11] I asked Attilio Reale, the accomplished pizza baker at New York's Buca Brick Oven Pizza on West 103rd Street, if he learned to fold and tie his classic pizzaiolo hat back home in Naples. No, the Neapolitan learned the technique working in the...
If real wizardry was what the people wanted, November's red carpets would have been diverted from the Harry Potter premiere at Odeon Leicester Square to a great new coffee shop on St Martin's Lane and a superb new pizzeria restaurant on Great Newport St. Notes Music...
Earlier this month, Herbie Leonelli was not his usual easygoing self. The pizzaiolo co-patron of Datte Foco in London was getting his first visit from the maestro, Giuseppe Russo of Pizzeria Russo in Rome. "Call me Giuseppe," the master would instruct his apprentice....
The next #PizzaTuesday is on the 23rd of March 7:30pm at Santore, Exmouth Market, London EC1. BOOK NOW.
The next gathering of the #PizzaTuesday papparazzi is on the 23rd of March 7:30pm at Santoré - 59 Exmouth Market, London. Camera phones welcome. Book now.
The connection between the London restaurant/pizzeria Santoré and the legendary Naples pizzeria Trianon da Ciro is unsubstantiated and at best tenuous. The quality of the pizza, however, does not lie. Before Crossrail construction extinguished its brick oven and...
The next #PizzaTuesday is on the 23rd of March 7:30pm at Santoré - 59 Exmouth Market, London. Book now.
The debut of the youngandfoodish PizzaTuesday series at Datte Foco was no event for sprinters. The entrants on Tuesday night were all analytically minded marathoners of good taste who know an endurance tasting when they see one. So extraordinary was the restraint...
These days it's easy to pick out the Italian expats on Stoke Newington Church St. They're the ones picking their jaws up from the pavement after having spotted the words DATTE FOCO - slang for "light yourself on fire" – spelled out in white letters on the shop window...
Who knows why an April breeze never remains? Why stars in the trees hide when it rains? Love comes along, casting a spell Will it sing you a song? Will it say a farewell? Who can tell? Could the great lyricist Johnny Mercer have had pizza in mind when he matched these...
How disappointing: no designer at London fashion week featured the white Wellington boots worn by the mozzarella makers of Campania, Italy in their collections. Stylish, hygienic and functional in a variety of social and industrial settings, the white mozza wellies,...
The City of London was founded around 50 AD, when Emperor Claudius and his Roman army built a fortified settlement on the River Thames. Nearly 2000 years later, the scent of a quieter Roman invasion is wafting through the Londinium air, rousing knowing noses from...
[slider_pro id="19"] My top 10 pizzas in London list reflects a global renaissance in the appreciation of Neapolitan pizza. The difference this time is that the feeling is genuine. Naples shared its love for pizza and dry pasta with the world many years ago but...
In an LA Times article about Ferran Adrià 's plans to open a pizzeria in Barcelona, the elBulli chef is shown sampling a pizza margherita at Turin 's Frattelli La Cozza [corso Regio Parco 39, tel: +39 011859900 map.] That pizzeria may take its name from brothers Carlo...
My new discovery at the Islington Farmers' Market this past Sunday was organic British mozzarella di bufala from Higher Alham Farm, Shepton Mallet, Somerset. The suggestion of buffalo mozzarella from Cheddar cheese country appealed to me. Hadn't Chris Arnot written...
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