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If you want to understand my desire for a molten mozzarella unfulfilled by some of London’s top-rated pizzerias, hurry to Saporitalia, opened two weeks ago on Portobello Road in Notting Hill, order a Margherita and see how the islets of fior di latte (cow’s milk mozza) melt into one another, keeping soft and fluid even minutes after the pizza has been pulled from the wood-fired oven.

If you want to know how good a pizza can be even without a magic carpet of oozy cheese, order the marinara instead and see what a lightly crisp platform more in the Sorrento mode than classic Neapolitan can do for a combination of toppings as basic as good Italian plum tomatoes, fresh garlic, olive oil and oregano.

And if you want to help me decide if Saporitalia‘s pizza is now the best in London, come join the brothers Valentino and Franco Ferro and me on May 22nd for a PizzaTuesday party at which we will try a variety of pizzas from the sure hands of Valentino, who years ago worked behind the forno at Pizza Metro in Battersea.

Myself, I may not be able to wait until the 22nd.

Saporitalia, 222 Portobello Road, London W11 1LJ (see map)

Click here for more information about the PizzaTuesday party at Saporitalia.