LA

a great burger is a dangerous thing

A truly great burger, whatever its proportions and however tidy its construction, is a perilous proposition. That this sandwich-in-the-round sits not only on a bun but also on the brink of greasy collapse is fundamental to its gratification. ___________________ The...

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Does anyone know what rare is anymore?

When I ordered my bespoke burger rare at the Santa Monica  (California) location of The Counter, my waitress asked, "Do you know what rare is?" Odd question, I thought, to be asking a native English speaker fluent in basic menu vocabulary. I nodded yes, missing my...

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Spared the disgrace of a cow’s milk cappuccino

Caffe Luxxe pulls some of LA's best espresso shots and, situated amid the casual-chic shops of Santa Monica's moneyed Montana Ave, it also pulls in a sizable share of holistic mommies and bohemian millionaires.  There were in fact no empty tables for my brother Roy,...

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