15 July 2011 Dear Pierre Hermé, Imagine my delight when on the first of this month I received an invitation from your public relations representative in the UK to visit your Pierre Hermé Paris boutique in London (map), sample some of your incomparable macarons and...
Lionel Lévy, the Michelin-starred chef at Une Table, au Sud in Marseille, loves to revisit the classics. The protégé of Gérard Garrigues and Alain Ducasse has made a name for himself with his bouillabaisse milkshake and other signature (re)inventions. He added another...
Chef Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy didn't win the 2011 The San Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurant Awards on votes but he was tops in decibels. Roars erupted from Monday night's audience at London's Guildhall when the chef at the fourth...
According to the ground rules of the restaurant repertoire you're not supposed to find a dish like this......in a place like this... Yet when Hugue Dufour, the French-Canadian chef-proprietor of the M. Wells Diner in Queens, New York, asked me if I'd ordered his...
Yesterday I was trudging through the snow drifts along London's Leather Lane on the quietest of Saturdays in this December of discontent when I came across this wondrous sign above the entrance of numbers 14-16:Â Department of Coffee and Social Affairs. Was I...
The Meatwagon's Yianni Papoutsis may be as Greek as the cheezborger guys at Chicago's Billy Goat Tavern, the inspiration for the John Belushi diner sketchs on SNL, but he speaks without an accent, making use of a vocabulary stretching beyond one essential word,...
One shortcut to following the global coffee scene is to track the movements of Tim Styles, such is the Australian barista's knack for turning up at seminal shops at the right time. He's worked stints at Ray Cafe in Melbourne, Joe the Art of Coffee in New York, Flat...
The next youngandfoodish Steak Frites Tasting Dinner will be Tuesday 25 May in the private dining room of Racine Restaurant in London. The menu will again feature three steak classics – onglet aux échalottes, filet au poivre, côte de boeuf - prepared by chef Henry...
The voters have spoken: There is no love for steak frites so rare as the one seared in memory by @the_rts. And just why does the winner of the youngandfoodish why-do-you-love-steak-frites competition love steak frites? @the_rts: #steakfrites juices flowing, meat's...
Few clichés in food criticism are as vacuous as this observation commonly applied to exotic cuisines: Not all dishes will be to all tastes... The last to use it was Matthew Norman of The Guardian in his Weekend magazine review of the London Szechuan restaurant My Old...
Picture a one-armed South Bank street performer juggling pumpkins while being sprayed from the Thames by a naked Duke of Edinburgh skidding by on a jet ski and you can begin to appreciate my astonishment upon seeing an elegant Knightsbridge woman walk out of  O'Shea's...
When the old hall of London's Borough Market was shut a month ago to facilitate construction of a new Thameslink train line into London Bridge station, the baker De Gustibus was one of four traders suddenly forced to give up their stalls. That was a devastating...
Rather than violate the civil liberties of a law-abiding British citizen I would prefer that Gwilym Davies voluntarily strap a GPS tracking bracelet to his ankle. But if the 2009 World Barista Champion refuses to help us trace his movements via GPS or constant twitter...
Is August a bad month for salt beef? I certainly hope so. For if the drop in form at two of London's very best salt beef purveyors is not due to seasonal disruptions, it isn't only my list of the top 5 salt beef sandwiches in London that will need to be overhauled....
Whenever in London you can congratulate 2009 British and now World Barista Champion Gwilym Davies in person – and have a great coffee while you're at it. Gwilym pulls his award-winning shots from an espresso cart parked at the Whitecross Street Market on weekdays...
Dear Andy Hayler, I stumbled upon your review of Moro (34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1), which was reprinted at myvillage.com, and had great difficulty digesting your description of its bread as "poor, too airy, floury...
In his review of Corrigan's Mayfair in London, Matthew Norman devotes the first 285 words to a single hypothesis: The best professional cooks are, like Norman himself, portly: Just as you can't put too much faith in a bald barber or in a psychiatrist whose jacket does...
The logic to Devine’s metaphorical flourish is inescapable:
If, (A), al dente, an Italian expression meaning “to the teeth”, is commonly used to describe the firm, desirably chewy texture of pasta and, (B), “chewy” is an accepted term in the wine lexicon for fleshy, firm-structured, full-bodied wines, then, (C), the Domaine Gay-Coperet Moulin à Vent tastes like fettuccine.
At lunch on Thursday, Peter Harden, the co-publisher (with his brother Richard) of Harden's London and UK restaurant guides, named a 7th (or is it now 8th) reason why diners seek out restaurant reviews: cover from blame should a restaurant suggestion of theirs...
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