Parisian bistro chefs invariably prefer the sizzling sear of a frypan to that of a charcoal or wood-fired grill for their steaks. They’re after the reddish sheen mastered by chef Thierry Laurent at the marvelous Le Bistrot Paul Bert. To ensure your steaks have that same caramelised lustre without a burned or blackened taste, be sure to:

• First warm the steaks to room temperature.
• Use a nonstick skillet so not much oil and butter are required.
• Use an oil with a high smoke point, such as soybean (soya), grapeseed, peanut (groundnut) or canola (rapeseed).
• Add the butter to the pan just before the steaks, not giving it time to brown.

This recipe for a pan-fried bistro steak with Béarnaise sauce, from The Bistros, Brasseries & Wine Bars of Paris, is an adaptation of Le Bistrot Pau Bert’s entrecôte grillé.

Makes 4 servings

4 rib, rib-eye or sirloin steaks, 3/4 inch thick, 8 to 10 oz (225-285g) each
4 tablespoons peanut (groundnut), soybean (soya) or grapeseed oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Béarnaise sauce

1. Remove the steaks from the refrigerator 30 to 60 minutes before cooking them.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 2 large nonstick skillets over high heat until very hot. Drop 1 tablespoon butter in each pan, immediately add the steaks and sear for 3 minutes (for medium rare). Turn the steaks, season the cooked sides with salt and pepper and sear the uncooked sides for 3 minutes.
3. Transfer the steaks onto plates, season with salt and pepper and serve immediately with Béarnaise sauce and frites.