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How do you explain the drab colour and odd texture of the burger patty at MEATMission, the latest from London burger legend Yianni Papoutsis?

If you know and love Yianni burgers from The Meatwagon, MEATLiquor or MEATMarket you tolerate his heavy hand with the ground black pepper shaker. You accept that with long queues and thousands to serve not every patty can be cooked to a pink ideal.

But nothing in your experience fully prepares you for a dense patty with so little colour, juice and crumble.

So what’s going on?  Is it:

A) The MEAT empire is growing too fast.

B) The truck dude who knew only two ways to cook a burger, juicy and very juicy, is concerned about food safety. To protect us from E. coli infection his kitchens will no longer take requests for rare and medium-rare burgers unless we are really really insistent.

C) It’s not so much that MEATMission burgers are inferior. It’s that new competition is raising the bar and, with it, our expectations.

D) MEATMission is only two weeks old. Give it time.

E) It’s true, grey IS the new pink.

MEATMission, 14-15 Hoxton Market, London N1 6HG